Kayaking the Western Rivers, Boothbay and Pemaquid Point: Maine Island Trail Thru-Paddle

On the second day I kayaked across the mouths of several of Maine's largest rivers including the Kennebec, Boothbay Harbor and rounded the infamous Pemaquid Point.  This is part of a series of posts of my 200 mile kayaking trip up the coast of Maine by the Maine Island Trail. Previously: Kayaking across Casco Bay

Near the mouth of the Kennebec where the currents pick up

After camping out at the edge of Casco Bay, I headed for the next leg; The huge western river outlets and Boothbay harbor. I had some formidable obstacles this day. First I had to round the exposed point of Phippsburg where there are many submerged rocks and currents. Next I had to cross the mouth of the mighty Kennebec which dumps much of the water from the northern Appalachians. Finally there was the even more exposed Pemaquid Point which guards the entrance to Muscongus Bay. I had my work cut out for me today.

As most mariners know, the morning is the best time to cover greater distances before the afternoon brings stronger winds and currents. This was true when I was kayaking the Channel Islands of California and its true out here in Maine. As soon as the sun was up, I packed my camp and hit the water. I rounded Phippsburg without too much trouble but given my timing, I would be hitting the even more dangerous Pemaquid Point late afternoon. There was just no avoiding it; at times I would have to be tacking tough sections at tough times.

On the other hand, I would be tackling the mouth of the Kennebeck at a perfect time- slack tide and early morning. The Kennebec River is one of the more formidable rivers of New England and holds so many memories for me and Maine. Its watershed stretches all the way to the Canadian border. Moosehead Lake serves as its headwaters. At 40 miles wide and 10 miles long, it is the largest alpine lake in New England. I did a weekend kayak trip of it in late November last year and barely saw a quarter of Maine’s greatest lake. From here, it jogs through some ponds and shoots down the Kennebec River gorge with vicious force. I remember whitewater rafting those icy waters in June when torrential rains and high water made the swollen river like a roller-coaster  We took out at the forks where the equally wild Dead River meets the Kennebec. From here, the rapids are calmer as it passes by some of Maine’s famous mill towns of Waterville and Skowhegan and eventually Augusta. If I turned north, it would be possible for me to paddle all the way to the capital, 40 miles inland.

After the capital, the Kennebec flows into Merrymeeting Bay where 5 other rivers meet. The Androscoggin River flows straight down from Mt Washington and is every bit as historical and vital to the economy of Maine. With the water of six rivers all running down to the ocean at the mouth of the Kennebec and Shepscot Bay, I try to maintain focus on my technique and surroundings.

I don’t mean to belabor the details of the Kennebec, I’m just point out that this is a crossing of the Rubicon. I feel more nervousness than I do excitement.

Reid State Park after crossing the Kennebec's mouth

I know I’ve entered the crossing of the Kennebec because the current gives my boat an instant jerk. It didn’t knock me off balance but I could feel the force of 6 rivers hitting my boat at once. I had to change my bearing significantly to account for the current and prevent my boat from going out to sea. Off in the distance is Popham Beach and Fort Popham which once guarded the mouth of the economically vital river. I laughed thinking of the times spent at Popham Beach simply relaxing and killing time.

It’s a long crossing. It is only about a half a mile but the cross current makes it a struggle. I use a few of the islands in at the mouth for cover and rest. Eventually I feel another palpable change in the currents and I know I’ve made it. It was such a profound feeling to be entering and exiting the mouth of the river- difficult to explain.

Classic coastal Maine

On the far side of the Kennebec’s mouth I come to the welcoming beach of Reid State Park. Already feeling exhausted, I rode a wave into shore and took a late morning siesta. What a curious sight that must have been. Reid State Park is a popular family day trip area and the beach is great for swimming so it was crowded on this Friday. Then, some guy in a cowboy hat and a 16’ kayak just comes out of the blue and lands right on the beach (I’ll explain the hat later). I am here to relax too before my next big crossing.

Sheepscot Bay is directly adjacent to Reid State Park and Georgetown Island. This is a larger bay and also serves as the mouth for the Sheepscot River and part of the Kennebec. Further upstream, some of the water from the Kennebec shoots through narrow corridors known as “Upper Hell Gate” and “Lower Hell Gate”. Not a good place for a kayaker on his own. Sheepscot Bay ends up being relatively flat and current-less for me but at several points there are reefs and submerged rocks which create standing waves and breakers. Once again I am forced to be staring at my charts more than anything else. Off to my left, the little swell I just floated over increased to four times its height and breaks over a patch of water that was flat a minute ago. Such is the way of the “drowned coast”

The small harbor at the edge of Southport Island

Things become a little duller after this and I am thankful. I roll right by Southport Island and Boothbay Harbor, wishing I had the time to dock and stroll around. At some point in the planning I was thinking that I would have time to stop in every little town along the way and poke around. I find I have no time to waste; weather this good can turn fowl quickly in Maine.

Pemaquid Point is off in the distance and I’m rounding it when the wind and weather are the worst. Its not bad in the grand scheme of Maine weather but it will be a wild point for sure. I’m paddling towards the south to get around the point and many submerged rocks is against the wind. The Pemaquid Point Lighthouse is a famous scene depicted on Maine’s State Quarter. This is just one more iconic landmark of Maine that I have the fortune to see from the ocean. Once I round the point and begin paddling north, I ride the currents and watch the tourists on the shore. This is undoubtedly another strange scene to see a lone kayaker in a cowboy hat 300 yards off the coast fighting currents while hundreds of tourists idle away at the lighthouse.